Hmm, I don't know if the designer knew that specific knife as it's too far away from that imo. I think he just wanted to design a kitchen folder that you can use to cut on a board but still keep the flipper tab. He should have put the framelock recess on the inside though, the way it comes the clip is quite useless.
Yes, that's exactly the video I learned the most from. I never used Windex even though i tried to add a drop of dishwasher to reduce surface tension. All it gave me was more bubbles, so I prefer to use an electrolyte only, I used soda and rust remover (not Whink) with citric acid. You can use pure citric acid, too, but they didn't have that when I needed it. Oh, and distilled water is better than tap water.
Soda, citric acid or rust remover with some sort of acid will form the electrolyte. You could also use sulfuric acid but that's stuff I don't want to touch ;) Plain water won't work though
Well, the only advantage with sulfuric acid is that you feel it right away. Sulfuric acid is working in the straight way of a Samurai instead of the hidden Ninja danger of HF acid ;)
What sort of metal plate do you use for the negative polarity? I tried triple folded kitchen alu foil to ensure that it has the double surface of the titanium piece but it took minutes even reaching the basic bronze color... I use an 1.5 mm thick titanium wire for connecting the positive polarity to the titanium piece. Should I use a different plate for the negative polarity to reach the higher voltage colors?
I use a pack of scrap Ti rods that we still had on job. Another idea would be to dind a steel pot and a fitting sieve. Connect the negative to the pot (huge surface) and the postive to your Ti item and you should get good results. If it's taking too long or the result is too faint then you can try to experiment with your elecrolyte. Have fun :)
I experimented with a couple of things at the weekend without any progress. Maybe my cheap batteries are the source of the problem. I'll try to find a power source at a good price...
The AC power source is helping a lot, I wouldn't have bought one though if it wasn't from birthday money. Get yourself a simple battery tester to make sure you don't have a sucker in a middle. A battery with low current will literally suck away the current for whole chain. The source is very good for colours in the higher spectrum as it's getting very difficult to get the same colour for both scales on a framelock folder due to the bigger surface of the locking scale.
When my Ti didn't want to take the color it was either the electrolyte or that I haven'tn't thoroughly cleaned the piece to get anodized. First use dishwasher liquid, water and a soft brush, then rinse it and keep it in (destilled) water before you anodize it. You could also clean it with acetone or alcohol but I don't think that's necessary. I've made myself a hook from a scrap Ti rod on job, too bad I din't take the dozed when they were in the trash bin. Sometimes the area of the hook that has contact to the Ti piece got dirty from the electrolyte or maybe the sparks from anodizing formed an isolating layer so I just cleaned it with a scotchpad. If you ever have a scrap Ti rod or stripe, min. 10cm, try this. Clamp the piece in a vise and heat it up at one point in the middle. When it's red-hot you can bend it with your fingertip. It's amazing how flexible it becomes even though the heat won't reach your finger. Try that with Cu and you'll know the difference ;)
Thank you for your advice! I'll keep trying with a different electrolyte and a power supply if I manage to source one. I've just ordered a 100 x 100 x 0.5 mm titanium sheet for the negative polarity just in case. :)
Sounds like a good plan. I like to have something between anode and cathode so I've put a smaller plastic container with many holes into a bigger one, imagine white plastic for mixing resin. A sieve might be more professional but you really want to prevent a short circuit with anything above 30V. At 100V DC it could easily stop your heart. Not only HF acid can be dangerous ;)
I wonder if this design is inspired in part by the Cherbukov Cobra.
ReplyDeleteHmm, I don't know if the designer knew that specific knife as it's too far away from that imo.
DeleteI think he just wanted to design a kitchen folder that you can use to cut on a board but still keep the flipper tab.
He should have put the framelock recess on the inside though, the way it comes the clip is quite useless.
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteHi Endre,
ReplyDeleteWhat set up do you recommend for anodization with 9V batteries?
Something similar like THIS ONE?
What can I use instead of Windex?
Hello Isti
DeleteYes, that's exactly the video I learned the most from.
I never used Windex even though i tried to add a drop of dishwasher to reduce surface tension.
All it gave me was more bubbles, so I prefer to use an electrolyte only, I used soda and rust remover (not Whink) with citric acid. You can use pure citric acid, too, but they didn't have that when I needed it.
Oh, and distilled water is better than tap water.
Thanks for the info!
DeleteDo you mean adding baking soda, citric acid and plain rust remover to the electrolyte?
Soda, citric acid or rust remover with some sort of acid will form the electrolyte. You could also use sulfuric acid but that's stuff I don't want to touch ;)
DeletePlain water won't work though
I'll give it a try with the baking soda & citric acid mix, thanks.
DeleteSulfuric acid is like orange juice compared to the dreaded HF acid! :))
Well, the only advantage with sulfuric acid is that you feel it right away.
DeleteSulfuric acid is working in the straight way of a Samurai instead of the hidden Ninja danger of HF acid ;)
That's absolutely right! :)
DeleteWhat sort of metal plate do you use for the negative polarity? I tried triple folded kitchen alu foil to ensure that it has the double surface of the titanium piece but it took minutes even reaching the basic bronze color... I use an 1.5 mm thick titanium wire for connecting the positive polarity to the titanium piece. Should I use a different plate for the negative polarity to reach the higher voltage colors?
I use a pack of scrap Ti rods that we still had on job.
DeleteAnother idea would be to dind a steel pot and a fitting sieve. Connect the negative to the pot (huge surface) and the postive to your Ti item and you should get good results. If it's taking too long or the result is too faint then you can try to experiment with your elecrolyte. Have fun :)
I experimented with a couple of things at the weekend without any progress. Maybe my cheap batteries are the source of the problem. I'll try to find a power source at a good price...
DeleteThe AC power source is helping a lot, I wouldn't have bought one though if it wasn't from birthday money.
DeleteGet yourself a simple battery tester to make sure you don't have a sucker in a middle. A battery with low current will literally suck away the current for whole chain. The source is very good for colours in the higher spectrum as it's getting very difficult to get the same colour for both scales on a framelock folder due to the bigger surface of the locking scale.
When my Ti didn't want to take the color it was either the electrolyte or that I haven'tn't thoroughly cleaned the piece to get anodized. First use dishwasher liquid, water and a soft brush, then rinse it and keep it in (destilled) water before you anodize it. You could also clean it with acetone or alcohol but I don't think that's necessary.
I've made myself a hook from a scrap Ti rod on job, too bad I din't take the dozed when they were in the trash bin. Sometimes the area of the hook that has contact to the Ti piece got dirty from the electrolyte or maybe the sparks from anodizing formed an isolating layer so I just cleaned it with a scotchpad.
If you ever have a scrap Ti rod or stripe, min. 10cm, try this. Clamp the piece in a vise and heat it up at one point in the middle. When it's red-hot you can bend it with your fingertip. It's amazing how flexible it becomes even though the heat won't reach your finger.
Try that with Cu and you'll know the difference ;)
Thank you for your advice! I'll keep trying with a different electrolyte and a power supply if I manage to source one.
DeleteI've just ordered a 100 x 100 x 0.5 mm titanium sheet for the negative polarity just in case. :)
Sounds like a good plan.
DeleteI like to have something between anode and cathode so I've put a smaller plastic container with many holes into a bigger one, imagine white plastic for mixing resin.
A sieve might be more professional but you really want to prevent a short circuit with anything above 30V.
At 100V DC it could easily stop your heart.
Not only HF acid can be dangerous ;)